Kumaon Diaries – Binsar

Darkness is not unusual, even complete darkness is quite within the usual experience spectrum. But when such darkness is accompanied by deafening silence, then the experience takes on a different dimension. There are only a handful of easily accessible places left on our planet which still offer such an experience, and Binsar is one of those few. Of course, I am talking about the end of the season. During season this silence is silenced by idiots who allow their Id to supercede their super-egos. And the ego of such people are so strong that any objection to their sounds meet with superlative fury. Thankfully, we found ourselves among a motley group of people who understood the value of quietness. During the magnificent sunrises, or the sun drenched afternoons, our fellow visitors maintained a lovely low decibel level.

The slightest disturbance can ruin the Binsar experience. It is a place which is still untouched by electricity. All the establishments, the handful that are there, provide a couple of hours of light from the onset of night. Being a Wildlife Sanctuary, Binsar can surprise with wildlife sightings. If the weather is good, then the entire Kumaon range from Panchachulli to Trishul Parvat, featuring Nanda Devi and associated peaks, will take your breath away.

For birders there are some establishments and they focus solely on birds, with noise related restrictions and insistence on etiquette that all birders are familiar with – in fact, they discourage the usual flying tourists.

For those who have Himalayas in their heart, the Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (KMVN) Tourist Rest House (TRH) is the perfect place. [Here is the link to a brief video.] There is a rather picturesque hike within the Forest that takes tourists to a secluded spot featuring a watchtower, but the view from the tower fades in comparison to the view that the terrace of the TRH provides.

This terrace is not open to the day visitors, it is only for boarders. Even though the view is less comprehensive, I would strongly suggest to all to go on that hike. Not only is it quite on the easy side, it takes you through lush forests with regular view of the peaks and is rewarding in its wholesome natural ambience.

We reached Binsar in good time. We were advised that we have to cross the checkpost by 4 pm, after which travellers are not allowed to enter the Sanctuary. Our driver, however, assured us that the 4 pm curfew is not quite strictly followed and a few cars are allowed to pass. Thus assured, en route we visited the lovely Kasar Devi Temple.

The temple is located quite near the town called Almora and is of high spiritual magnitude.

Established around 2nd Century, this temple on Crank’s Ridge, has had encounters with many a prominent sage (and a number of hippies and singers from the swinging times). We were elated to see that Swami Vivekananda had spent much time meditating in a cave near the temple which is important because of another curious reason.

This temple has a special magnetic effect. Some attribute it to divine intervention, others say that since the temple is located right under the Van Allen Belt, the radiation causes this geomagnetic anomaly. This temple shares this special status with Stonehenge and Machu Picchu. We spent a decent bit of time as we felt the pull of nature and calmness more than any other.

We reached Binsar soon enough, crossing the Forest Department gate a couple of hours after noon.

And in an hour or so settled in our extremely cosy room at the TRH. Our room was in the building across the garden which greeted us with many flowers and many colours.

The evening went well with the fading rays of October sun slowly colouring the mountains in different hues.

The cold then made itself felt. Binsar sleeps early and with dinner served while the diesel generated light lasted. (The accompanying noise was as unwelcome as the light was welcome.) We have faced many a night without electric lights in our hikes, but to many, such light is an absolute necessity. Our hosts graciously provided us with flasks of warm water and we were set for night. We woke up early next morning and the terrace above our heads was full of people. As I have already said, these were not the kind which make your life hell with all kinds of unwanted information, often of a personal flavour, blared with loud disdain for privacy and decency. Instead, there was a quiet gathering of people who were equally engrossed with the sun and the first touches of sunlight on mountain tops. It was indeed a memorable morning.

People usually spend only one night at Binsar. We had two. This surprised the people at the TRH as well. The fact that we do not like the touch and go method of ticking off places and cram eleven spots in six hours, quite often presents a startling surprise for many. You have seen the sun rise/set, you have seen the mountains (/forts/beaches/etc), nature is all around – so why spend extra time seeing them again? This question no longer exasperates us. We have simply stopped explaining how you can actually enjoy a place without being frantically surrendering to your FOMO. We spent the day going on a leisurely drive to the ancient Mahadev temple a few kilometers down.

This temple is about a thousand year old. As it was built by King Prithu in memory of his father Bindu, the temple is also called Bindeshwar/Bineswar temple (hence the name Binsar). During Baikunth Chaturdashi, a mega fair takes place in the adjoining field.

We met the priest, who graciously showed us the temple and told us of its significance. And we took a look at the picturesque old hut next to the road.

Then we had a bit to eat at the quite famous Simba Cafe across the field.

Then we came back to the TRH and had coffee on the terrace with the sun at our back and the clouds playing hide and seek with the peaks. We stayed put for a couple of hours, hardly speaking, letting our thoughts wander, until it was too cold.

Then we went to our room, organized things, and soon it was dinner time. This day, for us, was a good day. Next morning we went back to another amazing sunrise, following it with a leisurely hike to the hanuman habitat called the watchtower and allowed them to see a couple of humans. 

We might never go back to Binsar. The world is too big for one life and going back is a luxury life seldom allows. And that is the key reason why we spend a bit of extra time wherever we go. We like not only to bring back memories, but also to leave a bit of us there. How we connect defines us. Let it be a fine definition. 

RELEVANT INFORMATION

Binsar is around 120 km from Kathgodam.

Located in Kumaon region of Uttarakhand.

There are not many staying options in Binsar. Staying at the TRH is best.

Prior booking is a must if you plan to stay. Day trips from Almora (40 km) are possible, but not suggested as the sunset will be missed. Driving down in the dark is not allowed or recommended.

The Sanctuary is not accessible in winter.

Famous for natural beauty, view of snowpeaks and birding.

No public transport in the sanctuary. It is best to have prearranged vehicle.

Nearest station is Kathgodam, nearest proper airport is Lucknow.

Entry fee for car and camera to be paid at the entry checkpost.

Earlier Posts

1. Old Lucknow 2. Colonial Lucknow 3. Going Downhill – Versey to Dentam 4. Going to Garhwal 5. The Walkers 6. Palamau 7. Rishikesh 8. Kolkata Kolkata 9. The Roar of the Clouds – Santiniketan 10. Of Pests and Men – Uttarey 11. Where Hikers Fear to Tread – Rudranath 12. Old Times 13. History in Ruins – Pushpagiri 14. Once There was a Heaven 15. Serenity 16. Pilgrim’s Progress – Kedarnath 17. Unfinished – Gaumukh 18. Ghatshila 19. Nothing Important 20. Manu’s Alaya – Manali 21. Santiniketan 22. Little Lhasa – Dharamshala 23. From Varuna to Assi – Varanasi 24. Tunganath 25. Transitory Blues 26. Gurudongmar 27. The Beginning 28. Yumesamdong 29. Bangali in Bangkok 30. Mukutmanipur 31. Rasvanti 32. The Old Town and the Sea 33. Budapest 34. The Last Post of 2019 35. Travel Travails 36. Cluj-Napoça 37. Presenting the Past 38. Far From the Urban Crowd 39. Silent Night Sleepless Night 40. Norwich 41. Photo Essay – The Road 42. Photo Story – The Days of the Goddess 43. Badrinath 44. Monumental Mistakes 45. Odyssey Now 46. To the Mountains 47. Keylong 48. Where Moon River is Born 49. Kaza 50. Through the Valley of Spiti 51. Kalpa 52. Sarahan 53. Un-happy Journey (Meghalaya) 54. Shimla 55. Bhalukpong 56. Rissia Nature Camp – Kuldiha Forest 57. Arunachal Diaries – Dirang 58. Arunachal Diaries – Sela to Jong 59. Quest for Quietness – Barot 60. Chindi to Chail 61. Baranti 62. Clouds of Tawang